The Place
Pedana, a quaint town near Machilipatnam in the Krishna district of Andhra Pradesh, is home to the revered traditional handblock printing method known as Pedana Kalamkari. This craft has its roots in creating religious tapestries and sacred cloths but flourished under the patronage of various ethnic rulers, evolving into a secular art form appreciated worldwide.
In the 16th century, Persian explorers discovered the vibrant hand-weaving and block printing communities in the region known then as "Maesolia," now Machilipatnam. Back then, this art was known as "Addakam," meaning printed fabric. The distinctive finer details were meticulously painted with a "kalam" or a fine brush. This fusion of techniques laid the foundation for what we now call Pedana Kalamkari.
Historical Significance
The craft's appeal extended beyond local consumption. Persians prized these block prints for their prayer mats, quilts, patkas (waist belts), and tents. Europeans embraced them for their clothing and bedspreads, famously known as "palampores," derived from the term "palang posh," meaning bedcover. As the craft gained global traction, its aesthetic was influenced by Dutch, European, Persian, and Japanese cultures, leading to the popularity of block printing as a method in Kalamkari. The designs, heavily influenced by the Persian aesthetic, reflect the Golconda Sultanate's cultural legacy.
One significant factor contributing to the craft's prosperity was its adaptability. Artisans could customize designs to suit the preferences of various countries, with motifs that transcend cultural and religious boundaries. This versatility made Pedana Kalamkari widely appealing. The English referred to it as "chintz," the Dutch as "sitz," and the Portuguese as "pintado."
The Process
Pedana Kalamkari's hand-block printing method, protected by a Geographical Indication (GI) tag, utilizes mordants and natural dyes. This highly skilled and complex process is a testament to the artisans' dedication and expertise.
1. Fabric Preparation: The process begins with soaking "kora" fabric in water for three days to remove starch. After rinsing and drying, the fabric is treated with myrobalan (known as "karakkaya" in Telugu) and buffalo milk. The tannin in myrobalan plays a crucial role in ensuring the colour's fastness. Once treated, the fabric is ready for the first stage of printing.
2. Mordant Printing: The first round of printing, known as mordant printing, involves three colours: kasimkar (a mixture of rusted iron and jaggery), Alum (referred to as "karam" in Telugu), and gabbu (a combination of Alum and kasimkar). Typically, Kasimkar outlines the print while Alum fills it out. As liquid Alum is colourless, edible colours are added to make the print visible. Once printed, the fabrics are dried and washed in the river or canal, with the sunshine's intensity and the water's mineral composition playing a significant role in achieving the desired depth of colours.
3. Dye Bath: The fabrics are boiled in a dye bath in the next stage. Copper vessels are used for this process, with rice husk and wood chips as fuel. A specific forest leaf called "jajaku" is added to the boiling water to help fix the colour. The fabrics are boiled in various dyes, such as anar, alizarin, khatta, and madigapoo (a locally available flower). These dyes, combined with printed Alum, produce an array of colours. After the dye bath, the fabrics are rinsed and dried, preparing them for the next printing stage.
4. Natural Dye Printing: At this stage, natural dye paste is used for printing, including indigo, halda, alizarine, khatta, and more. Once printed, the fabrics are thoroughly washed and dried, completing the process. The resulting fabric showcases the vibrant and intricate designs characteristic of Pedana Kalamkari.
Pedana, a quaint town near Machilipatnam in the Krishna district of Andhra Pradesh, is home to the revered traditional handblock printing method known as Pedana Kalamkari. This craft has its roots in creating religious tapestries and sacred cloths but flourished under the patronage of various ethnic rulers, evolving into a secular art form appreciated worldwide.
In the 16th century, Persian explorers discovered the vibrant hand-weaving and block printing communities in the region known then as "Maesolia," now Machilipatnam. Back then, this art was known as "Addakam," meaning printed fabric. The distinctive finer details were meticulously painted with a "kalam" or a fine brush. This fusion of techniques laid the foundation for what we now call Pedana Kalamkari.
Historical Significance
The craft's appeal extended beyond local consumption. Persians prized these block prints for their prayer mats, quilts, patkas (waist belts), and tents. Europeans embraced them for their clothing and bedspreads, famously known as "palampores," derived from the term "palang posh," meaning bedcover. As the craft gained global traction, its aesthetic was influenced by Dutch, European, Persian, and Japanese cultures, leading to the popularity of block printing as a method in Kalamkari. The designs, heavily influenced by the Persian aesthetic, reflect the Golconda Sultanate's cultural legacy.
One significant factor contributing to the craft's prosperity was its adaptability. Artisans could customize designs to suit the preferences of various countries, with motifs that transcend cultural and religious boundaries. This versatility made Pedana Kalamkari widely appealing. The English referred to it as "chintz," the Dutch as "sitz," and the Portuguese as "pintado."
The Process
Pedana Kalamkari's hand-block printing method, protected by a Geographical Indication (GI) tag, utilizes mordants and natural dyes. This highly skilled and complex process is a testament to the artisans' dedication and expertise.
1. Fabric Preparation: The process begins with soaking "kora" fabric in water for three days to remove starch. After rinsing and drying, the fabric is treated with myrobalan (known as "karakkaya" in Telugu) and buffalo milk. The tannin in myrobalan plays a crucial role in ensuring the colour's fastness. Once treated, the fabric is ready for the first stage of printing.
2. Mordant Printing: The first round of printing, known as mordant printing, involves three colours: kasimkar (a mixture of rusted iron and jaggery), Alum (referred to as "karam" in Telugu), and gabbu (a combination of Alum and kasimkar). Typically, Kasimkar outlines the print while Alum fills it out. As liquid Alum is colourless, edible colours are added to make the print visible. Once printed, the fabrics are dried and washed in the river or canal, with the sunshine's intensity and the water's mineral composition playing a significant role in achieving the desired depth of colours.
3. Dye Bath: The fabrics are boiled in a dye bath in the next stage. Copper vessels are used for this process, with rice husk and wood chips as fuel. A specific forest leaf called "jajaku" is added to the boiling water to help fix the colour. The fabrics are boiled in various dyes, such as anar, alizarin, khatta, and madigapoo (a locally available flower). These dyes, combined with printed Alum, produce an array of colours. After the dye bath, the fabrics are rinsed and dried, preparing them for the next printing stage.
4. Natural Dye Printing: At this stage, natural dye paste is used for printing, including indigo, halda, alizarine, khatta, and more. Once printed, the fabrics are thoroughly washed and dried, completing the process. The resulting fabric showcases the vibrant and intricate designs characteristic of Pedana Kalamkari.
This traditional printing method, combined with natural dyeing, is not only slow and ecologically sustainable but also requires a high level of local skill. It provides employment to many craftspeople and transcends gender, economic background, and caste barriers.
Pedana Kalamkari stands as a testament to the rich cultural heritage of Andhra Pradesh and the timeless beauty of its artisanal crafts. As the artisans themselves say, "In every print, we weave stories of our past, present, and future." At Metaphor Racha, we are proud to be part of this journey, bringing the art of Pedana Kalamkari to you, our valued customers, and sharing the enduring legacy of this beautiful craft.
Pedana Kalamkari stands as a testament to the rich cultural heritage of Andhra Pradesh and the timeless beauty of its artisanal crafts. As the artisans themselves say, "In every print, we weave stories of our past, present, and future." At Metaphor Racha, we are proud to be part of this journey, bringing the art of Pedana Kalamkari to you, our valued customers, and sharing the enduring legacy of this beautiful craft.
1 comment
What is exactly kanaka: other name ?