For the past decade, we have been privileged to understand how cotton Khadi fabric is produced. Thanks to local khadi sanghas, communities, and craftspeople, for letting us know the meticulous processes that go into creating the "Fabric of Freedom". Today, we are excited to share a pictorial guide to help you understand the various steps in transforming raw cotton into khadi fabric.
1. Cotton Picking
The journey begins with the careful harvesting of cotton bolls. This process, often done manually, involves collecting the bolls from the cotton plant. It's a labour-intensive task that requires patience and skill to ensure the cotton remains clean and intact for the subsequent steps.
2. Ginning
After the cotton is picked, it undergoes ginning, separating the fibres from the seeds. This process can be performed in large, power-driven ginning factories. The result is clean, seed-free cotton lint ready for further processing.
3. Blowing
Blowing is a cleaning process that removes impurities from the cotton lint, giving it a 'bloom' and, if necessary, blending two or more varieties of cotton. This step is crucial for maintaining the quality and consistency of the fibres.
4. Carding
Carding involves separating the fibres through an intense yet low-speed tearing action. This process lays the cotton in a compact, round form inside containers, preparing it for the next stage.
5. Drawing
Drawing straightens the fibres, making them parallel and uniform. Also known as fibre orientation, this step ensures the cotton is ready for spinning, producing an even and consistent yarn.
6. Combing
Combing further homogenizes the fibres for high-count yarns, removing any short fibres. This step refines the cotton, preparing it for the pre-spinning stage.
7. Roving
Roving reduces the diameter of the combed sliver with a minimum of twists. The diameter is adjusted based on the desired yarn count, setting the stage for the final spinning process.
8. Spinning
Spinning is where the sliver is drawn to the desired fineness with a required twist. The result is a yarn ready for use in weaving, providing the foundation for the fabric.
9. Sizing
The spun yarn hanks are then washed, boiled, and starched during sizing. This step strengthens the yarn and makes the weaving process more manageable.
10. Dyeing
Depending on market requirements and available skills, dyeing the yarn hanks involves using various chemical and natural dyes. This process adds vibrancy and personality to the fabric.
11. Warping
Warping involves dressing the yarn on the loom, where individual yarn ends are arranged parallel and vertically from a warp frame and wound on a drum. This setup is essential for the weaving process.
12. Weaving
The final step is weaving, where the weft yarn intersects with the warp in an intricate dance of over and under crossings. This continuous process transforms the thread into a beautiful piece of fabric.
We have attempted to provide a simplified version of the processes involved in weaving every meter of cotton khadi fabric. While we have omitted a few processes for brevity, we look forward to elaborating on each step and the people behind them when allowed to present ourselves in a more comprehensive format.
Disclaimer: Per KVIC guidelines, we refrain from using the trademarked word 'Khadi' in our product descriptions.
Through this guide, we aim to highlight the dedication and craftsmanship that goes into each piece of fabric, showcasing our artisans' rich heritage and skill. We invite you to join us in celebrating the art of Khadi and the countless hands that contribute to its creation.