For the last 10 years, we have been working with locally produced Ambara Charaka spun and hand-woven cotton fabric. We are fortunate enough to work closely with many local co-operative societies, communities and craftspeople. With a humble amount of understanding of the processes behind our chosen fabric, we are sharing a pictorial guide below, which would probably assist you to understand the various steps involved.
1. Cotton picking - A process of harvesting the Cotton boll manually.
. 2. Ginning - A process of separating the cotton fibres from the seeds. This can be manually done at home or large power-driven ginning factories.
. 3. Blowing - A process of cleaning the extracted lint from impurities and giving it a 'bloom' and if necessary to mix 2 or more verities of cotton.
. 4. Carding - A process where fibres are separated through intense yet low speed tearing action to lay the cotton in a compact round form inside the containers for the subsequent process.
.5. Drawing - A process of straightening the fibre, making them parallel to each other, uniform and even. Also called as fibre orientation.
6. Combing - A process of further homogenizing the fibre and remove short-fibre whenever high count yarn is required.
.7. Roving - A final process in the pre-spinning stage where the volume of the combed sliver is reduced in diameter with a minimum twist. The diameter of the sliver depends on the pre-decided yarn count.
.8. Spinning - A process where the sliver is drawn to the desired fineness with a required twist, resulting in a yarn which is used in a convenient form.
.9. Sizing - A process where the spun yarn hanks are washed/boiled and then starched, which not only gives strength to the yarn but also makes weaving relatively easier.
10. Dyeing- A process of dyeing the yarn hanks. Depending on the market requirement and skill availability, various kinds of chemical and/or natural dyes are used.
11. Warping - A process where the yarn is dressed on the loom, wherein, the individual yarn ends are arranged parallel yet vertical from a warp-frame and wound on a drum.
12. Weaving- A process of continuous intersecting of weft yarn with that of the warp in some form of over and under crossing, resulting in converting the thread to a piece of fabric.
Note: We have attempted to share a simplistic version of the processes involved behind weaving every meter of Ambara Charaka spun and hand-woven cotton fabric. Keeping in mind the communication platform, we have omitted a few processes. We sincerely hope to elaborate on every step and people behind them when we get an opportunity to present ourselves in a better way in future.
Disclaimer: As per KVIC guidelines, we cease to use the 'trademarked' word 'Khadi' on any of our product descriptions.