Despite its proximity to the bustling city of Hubli, Hebsur, a quaint village with 1500 households, remains seemingly frozen in time. Tourists often overlook this village on National Highway 52, hurrying past on their way to buy the famous Jamkhanas of Navalgund.
In 2016, my friend Aparna, who lived in Dharwad and worked at a local SHG took me to Hebsur. Knowing my interest in textiles and my appetite for Indiana Jones moments, she knew I would appreciate what I was about to encounter. I first saw "Gudaar Patti" in this village – a tough, thick, small-width fabric, unique in its texture and durability.
Over three generations, more than two dozen families dedicated their lives to weaving this sturdy material. However, this number has dwindled to just two families struggling to keep the craft alive. Weaver Kalmesh Hebbali, who wove Gudaar for us, passed away after a prolonged illness in 2021: his wife, Shivaleela Hebbali, continues to weave in her free time.
The weavers purchase 2/10s surplus yarn from Ranebennur, dye it themselves, and then weave it into a simple yet striking striped fabric, typically 12" to 16" in width. These narrow strips are then skillfully joined using 'Katri Holige' or 'Scissors stitches' in Kannada. The result is a larger piece of fabric, tailored to the required size, which has traditionally been used to cover "Raagi Kana" (heap of harvested Finger millet) or as Jamkhanas (floor carpets) during weddings and to cover the "Yettina Gaadi" (Bullock cart).
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| Kora Yarn | Yarn in a dye bath |
In the last two decades, the local consumers' switch to cheap plastic cement bags has devastated the Gudaar Patti weaving craft. This shift has not only impacted the economic stability of the weavers but has also threatened to erase a significant part of Karnataka's cultural heritage. The once-thriving craft is now on the brink of extinction, with only a few families in the Belgaum district continuing the tradition.
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| Weaver on a small pit-loom | Simple warping technique |
At Metaphor Racha, we believe in promoting local crafts. We have been working with the Gudaar weavers to offer it in new forms, such as table runners and mats. By bringing Gudaar Patti to a broader audience, we hope to breathe new life into this ancient craft and provide sustainable livelihoods for everyone involved.
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| The scissor stitch | Table runners from Metaphor Racha |
Our choices as consumers carry immense weight in our increasingly globalized and industrialized world. By consciously opting for handcrafted products like Gudaar Patti, we invest in unique craft, preserve cultural heritage, and sustain local artisans.
As we navigate our purchasing decisions, remember that "every thread we choose weaves the fabric of tomorrow."