Syahi-Begar block printing is a timeless craft deeply rooted in the heritage of Bagru, Rajasthan. At Metaphor Racha, we are committed to preserving and presenting this exquisite craft in a more digestible and engaging format. This journey of understanding and celebrating Syahi-Begar block printing is not just about the end product but about embracing the spirit and history behind every piece of fabric. Let's delve into the fascinating process that transforms plain cloth into vibrant works of art.
Hari Sarana: The Fabric's Fresh Start
Every masterpiece begins with a blank canvas. In Bagru, the fabric undergoes a process called "Hari Sarana." This step involves de-sizing, scouring, and bleaching the fabric to make it water-absorbent and pristine white. The fabric is soaked in water tanks for 24 hours, thoroughly removing all starch, oil, and dirt. This meticulous process sets the stage for the fabric to receive uniform and bright colours, breathing life into every thread.
Peela Karna: A Dance of Tannins and Metals
The next step, "Peela Karna," involves treating the fabric with harda powder (tanning). This treatment ensures that metal salts react with the tannin in harda, forming an insoluble bond in water. The harda-dyed fabric is then dried and beaten to remove any excess powder. This ancient practice prepares the fabric for the Syahi-Begar chappai (printing), imbuing it with a rich, earthy base.
Once the fabric is scoured and mordanted, the fabric is ready for Syahi-begar chappai (printing).
Syahi (Black): The Irony of Iron Salts
To create the iconic black print, waste iron particles or horseshoes are burnt and soaked in water. This concoction is left to ferment with jaggery for months, yielding a robust black dye. The solution is mixed with gum and tamarind seed powder to achieve the perfect consistency for printing. This black, known as "Syahi," symbolizes the depth and intensity of the printing process.
Begar (Red): The Alchemy of Alizarin
The "Begar" or red print is a testament to the intricate chemistry of natural dyes. When the harda-treated fabric is printed with an alum solution mixed with geru and gondh, it creates a chain reaction. The tannin in the harda forms a complex with aluminium, and when treated with alizarin, this combination yields a vibrant red colour. This process showcases the seamless blend of art and science in block printing.
Maroon and Brown: A Symphony of Colors
Combining the Syahi water with the Begar paste in a 1:9 ratio creates a stunning maroon shade. For a rich brown hue, tamarind seed powder is mixed with lal kashish and cooked. These variations add a symphony of colours to the fabric, each telling a unique story of tradition and craftsmanship.
Chapai: The Heart of Printing
"Chapai" is the core of the block printing process. The harda-treated fabric is spread on a "mej" (a high wooden table) for printing. The Syahi and Begar pastes are poured into "saj" (printing trays), lined with a bamboo net and a thick fabric layer. This setup ensures a uniform distribution of the printing paste, allowing the wooden block to imprint the design flawlessly. The fabric is then sun-dried in a process known locally as "Sukhai."
Ghan Rangayi (Dyeing): The Final Flourish
The dyeing process, "Ghan Rangayi," is carried out in large copper vessels heated by wood fire. Alizarin-filled potli (small cloth bags) are dipped in the vessel, alongside "Dhawadi Phool" (Fire flame bush/woodfordia fruitcosa) to prevent patches and staining. A yellow shade is achieved using "Nasphal," a cold pomegranate rind and turmeric solution. When used as an overdye, Nasphal creates various shades: green over indigo, orange over kasumal, and softer red-ochre over red-dyed areas. The fabric is then rinsed in an alum solution and sun-dried, ready to grace your wardrobe.
At Metaphor Racha, we believe in the power of tradition and the stories woven into every thread. By supporting this craft, you help preserve Bagru's rich cultural heritage and bring the beauty of Syahi-Begar block printing to a global audience. "Art is not what you see, but what you make others see." Let us continue to celebrate the artistry and dedication of the craftspeople of Bagru, one print at a time.