* How to measure your blouse?

Call it Gyan, but I had to write this and get it out of my system.

The other day, I happened to notice a conversation on FB between a clothing brand with one of their customer regarding how to measure oneself and compare it to a saree blouse. I didn't dare to intervene as they were busy deciphering the difference between chest and bust, and they were all over.

In short, for women, bust measurement is the fullest part measured around the chest (Image-1). Usually, the word 'bust' is associated with women and 'çhest' for men. The measurements taken above or below the bust are called "upper-bust" and "lower-bust" measurements and not necessarily as 'chest' in a tailoring vocabulary.

I have been practicing pattern-making for a decade now and have noticed a simple mistake many young entrepreneurs and customers commit while measuring the blouse.

For example, you measure yourself around the bust (image-1). Do notice that the bust is around 2.5" below the armpit level (this varies from one person to another)

But, when it comes to measuring the stitched blouse (image-2), one ends up measuring the bust across the armpit! Why? Remember the bust is not near the armpit, but lower!.

Notice the paper pattern of a princess-cut blouse, which shows the fullest part of the bust area (image-3), and that's where one needs to measure the stitched blouse too.

Due to a few dart manipulation, you notice that the "upper-bust" measurement is lesser than that of a full-bust (image-4). (the paper pattern is only for depiction purposes and not to scale)

The correct place to check the bust measurement on a blouse is in image-5, which is in tandem with how you measured yourself, to begin with (image-1).

Over and out.
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